Yes, really pimple patches. do work. But not how you think. If you don’t have a whitehead yet, don’t expect the pimple patch to magically pop your pimple. Instead, they use a material called a hydrocolloid, which helps “absorb fluid from a pimple that has already formed a ‘head,’ also known as a whitehead,” says dermatologist Deanna Mraz, MD. Because of this, they are great at absorbing excess oil from the skin, which can make acne look flatter and less inflamed. Plus, they help protect the pimple from becoming further irritated, especially when pinched or touched, which can minimize healing time and prevent scarring, she adds.

But there are also newer types of pimple patches that can also be great for treating and preventing acne. “A medicated patch will actively smother the pimple with ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxideand/or tea tree oil,” says Dr. Mraz. “These active ingredients attack inflammation and bacteria to speed healing.”

Additionally, there are now microneedle patches, which have tiny barbs that will penetrate the pimple and help deliver the active ingredients deeper into the skin, explains Dr. Mraz. “These are great for deep cystic pimples that may not even be seen on the surface of the skin yet, but can be felt underneath,” she says. These can usually also be filled with calming ingredients, such as gotu kola, allantoinand bisabolol.