The Council of Fashion Designers of America gave three independent brands the ultimate vote of confidence: a second victory.

The It factor of American fashion has always been its endless reservoir of talent. Ambitious designers and creatives flock to New York to chase big dreams in the big city, but what happens if they slowly disappear? This challenge was top of mind this week as industry scions and design legends gathered to honor fashion. The Best and the Brightest at the CFDA Awards where a new class of independent designers dominated all categories.

Of course, the event still provided the necessary glitz and glamor of the fashion establishment. Addison Rae appeared in a tight mermaid dress designed by the president of the CFDA Thomas Brownecementing his place among pop’s stylish elite. The woman of all fashion trades Jenna Lyons He showed up on the red carpet in his usual stellar suit (also by Thom Browne), and Wicked dear star and industry Cynthia Erivo took over main event duties, wearing a custom hoodie number by Zac Posen for Gap designed by Jason Bolden.

However, the Council of Fashion Designers of America doubled down on substance. and style this year. “We are celebrating the creativity that defines American fashion and its ability to serve as a powerful voice for both culture and individuality,” says Steven Kolbexecutive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America from this year’s class of winners.

“Creativity is thriving, along with advances in sustainability and social responsibility. “More and more designers are committing to reducing their environmental impact and we are seeing more diversity and representation in fashion than ever.”

“There is room to support more independent designers and new voices,” Kolb adds when asked about his hopes for American fashion. “More creativity through collaboration, whether it’s designers working together, new technologies or building stronger connections between fashion and other creative fields.”

CFDA voters backed Kolb’s sentiment, casting their votes for new talent and awarding a trio of second wins to independent designers in the top three categories. Raquel Scott from Diotima took home the big win of the night, accepting the award for womenswear designer of the year from the actress Da’Vine Joy Randolph—just one year after her victory as an emerging designer and just three years after starting her brand.

This second win was the ultimate vote of confidence, not only for the brand’s coveted crochet styles and cool-girl insouciance, but also for the potential and power of emerging talent, and the industry’s responsibility to nurture them. . Scott herself gave credit to both “the incredible woman from Jamaica who makes the most beautiful crochet that I have the honor of bringing to the world” and her mentors in her acceptance speech. “I ask a lot of you as I try to navigate this craziness that is building an independent brand.”

The men’s clothing category also awarded a consecutive victory to Willy Chavarria. The industry veteran, who draws inspiration from an eclectic mix of Latin, American design codes and Catholic iconography, has made admirers of even the most jaded fashion editors with its dramatic proportions and meticulous craftsmanship. He also has fashion’s most compelling origin story: nearly a decade after unleashing his singular aesthetic on the world in 2015, Willy Chavarria has become the city’s hottest NYFW entry and a trailblazer. of men’s fashion of the 2020s. And Chavarría himself is racking up the accolades he deserves at 50 years old.

From Chavarría’s perspective, this year’s awards represent something of a change in the industry’s vibe. “The CFDA Awards on October 28 marked a pivotal moment in American fashion history by recognizing the social impact of designers before they reached their peak,” explains the designer. “Every person who works in this industry knows the craziness that is required. “We are all incredible in our dedication to art.”

That artistry and devotion are finally being recognized. Chavarría’s victory, like Scott’s, is more than just a trophy. It’s a message to any designer who has spent years developing their craft in relative anonymity: it’s never too late to strike out on your own.

After all, the challenges of running a fashion brand in New York (let alone starting one) have never been more apparent. Since the pandemic, McKinsey Studies, Thoughtful articles on World Water Dayand designers themselves have warned of the waning influence of the American fashion capital as an option increasingly out of reach and no longer attractive to young talent. It is no longer just about denouncing luxury sales and the rapacious American real estate market (although they are contributing factors). The reality is that many young, diverse designers cannot afford to even join the industry, let alone transform it. And for a city known for pushing artistic boundaries, that’s a problem.

Raul Lopezthe creative force behind Luaraccepted his second CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year award on Monday. Beyond your viral Ana bagLuar has established itself as an energetic New York institution that makes the impossible possible, like bringing Beyoncé to Bushwick and Madonna to Midtown during NYFW.

These designers are proof that American fashion needs new talent, and new talent needs institutional support. “I would love to see deeper collaboration between major institutions and emerging designers,” says López, describing what he hopes for the future. “I want fashion to be recognized culturally in the United States as it is abroad.”

Michael Korswho received the CFDA’s 2024 Positive Change Award for her work in philanthropy, agrees that there is still work to be done in terms of impact, both on emerging designers and on the world. As the architect of American sportswear, Kors shared that he hopes to see more “people using their platforms for good and supporting both new and established talent” in the coming years.

Emerging designer of the year, Henry Zankov of Zankov, It is another post-pandemic success story. “We’re celebrating a new generation with unique voices,” says the designer of this year’s event. After launching her eponymous brand in February 2020 (yes, that moment should make you cringe), her slow and steady rise to every fashion person’s favorite sweater line proves that it’s possible to play the long game. and win fashion awards.

These shared challenges are perhaps why this CFDA cohort is so supportive of their peers. “There is a lot of mutual support and love within the industry right now,” Lopez says. For Zankov, all the “fresh, bold points of view” are the most inspiring thing about the industry. Chavarría agrees: celebrating “each other” was the highlight of the night.

The 2024 CFDA winners signal a return to what made New York a fashion capital in the first place: raw talent, diverse perspectives and determination. The fashion elite seem ready and willing to support young brands once again (or at least show it publicly), which is an important first step in facing the challenges ahead. Hopefully, this show of faith also translates into the capital injections, industry connections, and PR support needed to thrive in today’s industry.

There is an air of confidence that a more vibrant and vital industry is on the horizon, in New York and beyond. So what is the future of American fashion? Trust, community and commerce. Or, as Raúl López de Luar says, “I.”